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Hirtenstraße 19, 10178 Berlin, Germany
+49 30 24041420
ouroffice@vangard.com

More #sewingwin even better than before

Hello. It’s been awhile. I’ve been busy. Busy trying to figure this sewing shit out. Also, gardening.

I think I may have finally crossed a major sewing knowledge gap, which feels like the best thing ever.  I’ve learned some things in the past few months as I’ve been making muslin after muslin after muslin. It’s mostly concerning sleeves. I have to say, thank GAWD for the internet. It was both my doom, but ultimately my savior. Sometimes too much information is a bad thing. It’s finding the right information that’s the key – and the hardest part.

  • I thought I had a giant back and/or needed an FBA, but I discovered (on some sewing forum I didn’t keep the link to) that most commercial pattern armholes are too low for me. This was causing weird pulling across by back, which made me feel like I was the Hulk about ready to bust out of clothing in a fit of rage. To fix this, I need to raise the side seam inch or so on the bodice front and back, and add that same amount to sleeve itself. Like this:
    sleeves
    That original fitting shell I did acts as a great template. Which really underscores that it was super worth the time to go through the steps to do this in the first place.

 

  • I was having THE HARDEST time setting in a sleeve, as I mentioned in my last post. I thought I figured out the issue: I had to much ease in my sleeve cap. After trying multiple times to take it out and redraft a sleeve that always looked totally mutant and nothing like a sleeve, I pretty much gave up.
    Every sleeve I would sew I would ALWAYS get puckers. ALWAYS. I came to the conclusion that it must be me, and something that I was doing. How can every stinking sleeve on every pattern I sew have too many puckers? That seems weird. After much Googling I came across this blog post and my life was changed forever.It’s using pins to ease in the sleeve instead of sewing two lines of gathers. I tried this one evening after I got home from work KNOWING it would fail like everything else and I swear, I had that sleeve pinned and SEWN with NO FUCKING PUCKERS, in like, 20 minutes. I will never go back to the other method unless of course, the sleeve is meant to be puckered.



IMG_2600

I am having a hard time articulating how I feel about this because I LOVE LOVE LOVE sewing and I have felt for so long that I just sucked at it and intellectually I wasn’t ready to accept it because I know I am a smart and talented person so now that I’ve cracked a major stumbling block I feel so hopeful.

#sewingwin

NL6342

It’s amazing after so many sewing fails, how a sewing win can really boost your spirits. I’ve been avoiding adding sleeves to my sloper because I just CANNOT bring myself to face making another muslin.

So instead, I distracted myself by making a muslin of New Look 6342. It’s a shift dress along the lines of the Colette Laurel, which I have made several times. However, it’s never really fit all that well and I’ve hacked the pattern all to hell so much that I just needed to start over.

Especially since now I know a little more of what I doing (sort of) I wanted to start from scratch. One issue I’ve always had with the Laurel is that there is too much height on my sleeve cap so I always end up with it puffed and puckered. That’s not really a look I am going for. I knew I was going to have the same issue with this dress so I fit the sleeve in the bodice how I thought it should fit, sewed it up and hacked off the excess. It worked, but it’s not the method I want to use going forward so I’ll try this technique on the next one and actually do it right.

One other thing I like about this pattern over the Laurel is that it had an option for front darts whereas the Laurel does not. The back fit me as well, which is awesome because I’ve had some issues recently where I get gaping at the back neck. And….the best, best, best part is that I was able to get the dress on WITHOUT a zipper!

So…all I need to do now is hem the sleeve and bottom and tack down the facings and I’ll have a muslin I can wear and I pattern I know that FITS. I’m pretty happy about that.

I am really trying to focus on stash busting before I go out and buy more fabric, so I am going to have to wait to make this again. Next up, is a basic pencil skirt using the Burda Jenny pattern.

Painting and Priming

workout_before_1

We have a giant spare room upstairs that has been designated the workout room as well as Jefe’s “office”. He NEVER spends time up here anymore…AND he has a gym membership. So, we have decided that it would be a good idea if I moved my sewing room up to this space so he can take over my current sewing room downstairs.

workout_before_2

Ugh! Look at those curtains! I hate them!

workout_before_3

I am super stoked. I love this room as it has great light and I am a sucker for sloped walls. It’s been this horrible lavender color since we’ve moved in and I am FINALLY getting around to repainting it (and getting new blinds!)

All of this painting is mainly prep for when we eventually get new carpet up here. However, I took this opportunity to upgrade my seedling closet. Here’s the before:

closet_before_1

I think this room was originally painted a really bright orange (like the carpet you can see peeking out in the hallway), and the closet was a bright green. Barf. It’s a seventies house FO SHO.

I bought a shelving unit and more lights and got everything installed this weekend:

closet_after

It was pretty shocking when I first plugged all of those lights in. I think I burned my corneas. We had to finish assembling the shelving unit INSIDE the closet, so this thing is pretty much stuck in there now. I don’t care…I LOVE it.

I’ve got the room halfway painted, and I still have to do the doors. My hand/arm is killing me from all of the painting, but I am so happy with the progress so far.